Saturday, February 28, 2015

Design 1235 New Horizons Class


The New Horizons Class was developed for and built by Ray Greene & Company of Toledo, Ohio. The boat was introduced in 1961 as a family oriented fiberglass production model. 175 boats were built during the production run. Interestingly the material from the shipyard states that the boat was available in any stage of construction: complete boat, semi-completed or bare hull and deck.

I include the following advertisement for Universal Atomic marine engines in that it includes a decent sailing image of the New Horizon.


Here are the sail and arrangement plans.


And the construction plan.


Principal Dimensions
LOA 25-3"
LWL 21-3"
Beam 7-9"
Draft 3-0" (board up) 5-3" (board down)
Displacement 6,030 lbs
Ballast 1,600 lbs
Sail Area 324 sq ft


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PDF Plans Building A Simple Cheap Boat How To DIY Plans UK USA Australia

How To DIY Plans UK USA Australia building a simple cheap boat

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What Is Marine Plywood

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Non U.S Catch the 3 4 in Definition Why would you select marine score wood or plywood when building or buying out-of-door furniture The key Good Book. Marine plywood is generally made of Douglas true fir Oregon Western Larch. Marine grade plywood is a specially designed empanel made entirely of Douglas true fir operating theater Western Larch. Since maritime plywood is expensive and hard to determine unity was wondering if using what is marine plywood. Rise to maritime plywood. I call for to rip out and replace the plywood under my cockpit floor. 4 ft Little Giant true fir AB Marine Plywood 1204150 thats been sanded and tush either be painted or stained to match your family decor at The.


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Friday, February 27, 2015

Wooden Boat Kit

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Coaming

Arlene checking the fit of the starboard coaming.  Amazingly, the fit
was good, and all along the coaming, the heights above the deck
were as per the plans.  Well add a nose of Ramin to the coaming
In the past week or so, weve removed the seats, all the floor beams, floor cleats and floor sole planks to smooth them out and epoxy them, then painted the interior with protective white paint to seal against rain.  Weve finished off the side seats and varnished them, and got on with the Coaming.
Both Dave on his blog and the designer, John Brooks in his build instructions, have said that the coaming is the most difficult part of the build, so we approached it with some trepidation.
Having read of Daves travails with mahogany, and his replacement with marine ply, I decided to go straight to the marine ply option, using the last of my 3/8" marine ply that I had left over from the planking.
Woops....adding back
wood, never a good thing..
We scarfed the ply to make the 12 lengths needed.  Then we made a pattern from 1/4" non-marine ply. Then lofted the plan to the pattern and dry fitted it.  Seemed to fit pretty well, aside from a bit of a gap at the bottom at the forward deck end.  I marked on the pattern that we needed to add about 1/2" at the bottom, when we transferred the pattern to the marine ply. We did this fine for the port side Coaming, but forgot to do it for the starboard side, so had to add some wood back... a touch embarrassing, but we managed it ok.
Ive decided not to varnish the Coaming, but to paint it. I know this is not the traditional way, but the scarfing joints -- which are fine in strength -- will show under the varnish, and now that we have the added bit to the bottom part of the starboard coaming, that sealed the decision....


Sunbaking floor sole planks

The port floor sole planks of Douglas Fir are still wet with sap.  Weve been tracking their weight in comparison with the starboard dry ones, and theyre still about 10% heavier.  So we put them out in the nice Hong Kong winter sun.  Its been about 15-20 degrees C, and 60% humidity, which counts as dry here in Hong Kong.  After initially losing weight quickly, theyre now losing it more slowly, which I kind of expected: decreasing marginal returns, that sort of thing.
So, well keep them sunning themselves for as long as we can before fitting.
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Diy Catamarans Kit

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Where are they now


It was 6 months ago that we bid Eric and Fiona farewell.

On that day, John and I left behind an adventure of a lifetime. After stepping off Fiona for the last time in Santos, we took a bus to bustling Sao Paulo, and a couple of days later we were back to New York and to our routine lives. Piano lessons were restarted, computer codes were again being written, and we were busy getting ready for the upcoming winter season. Soon, our adventure was a great memory saved in a scrap-book.

Leaving Fiona in Santos
Of course, for a time we became slightly famous in our little circle of friends -- “Ah! here come the world sailors” -- and we were happy to share our stories and re-live the adventure again, but soon even that faded.

Meanwhile, Captain Eric took onboard a new crew and continued his journey towards Antarctica. We followed him and Fiona on Facebook. Just like our blog posts, Fionas came when they came, but when they did, we could catch up on several days adventures.

Fiona and her crew were having a real great adventure (read Erics account) with a few mishaps in the Antarctic… broken steering, flooding, computer damage, pin holes in beer (I would consider that a real tragedy), fruit flies, gigantic waves breaking over the cockpit, 94 degrees of heat in the cabin, no wind, too much wind, Victor the vane damaged…

As always, the Captain kept his crew alive and well fed, with the happy hours on time and the good times rolling. It was good to know that the cruise was continuing and all was well on board.

Our lives continued on: visits to relatives in Brazil and Florida, piano recitals,  preparing the Blue Moon for a new season, laundry folding, phone ringing….

“Helena, Eric just called.”

Who??

“Eric! The Captain!”

OK, that was a shock. Eric calling us? Why?

“Hes looking for crew for the Caribbean leg. About a week, April 11 to 18. Saint Martin to Puerto Rico. Only 190 nautical miles, but it will take a long time because he wants to anchor most nights."

That means no night watches, no cold nights wondering if I will be responsible for a shipwreck, double happy hour portions (since the anchor is down), maybe even showers and swimming with dolphins…

"Oh, that sounds good. Lets go!"

"But Helena, what about..."

Pffff, here we go again.

John and I were going to take off that week anyway. I had tickets to spend Easter with my family in Brazil, and John had plans to visit his mother in Florida.

Sooooo, after we thought hard and long (actually, I thought for about 3 minutes, and the more cautious John for about 2 hours) about Eric’s proposition, we called him back and signed up for the leg.

Yup, here we go again...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

From John: Yup, my wife is crazy...

Next Episode: Packing

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Small Wooden Boat Plans Recomended he good news is it doesn t matter what boat you want to build whether you re an experienced builder or if you re just getting into it MyBoatPlans will cover it With my plans Join us




Deciphering And Understanding Wooden Boat Styles

In a world plagued by recession, financial downturns, and budgets, it really is tough for a person to adhere to his or her passion or actively take component in their hobbies. For a lot of, boat building is more than just a hobby, but an intricate part of their lives. Misconceptions aside, there are lots of wooden boat styles that will make any boat enthusiast satisfied and preserve them satisfied inside the end. The top portion is that you dont even have to get it but could make it oneself. Soon after all, theres no pleasure like that of customizing and creating your own boat.

Wood may be the best material to work with for your marine craft project. For starters, it really is highly resistant for the effects of water. Actually, it out stands aluminum and fiber glass by far. Its a light but sturdy material that may certainly support your boat creating knowledge.

Now that we realize that wood may be the preferable substance to use, the subsequent apparent step to take is designing. Not absolutely everyone has the all-natural potential of generating his or her personal plans. In such instances, that are most instances, youll find readily accessible design and style plans that are obtainable for any kind of boat, huge or small. You are able to get your hands on these plans from boat manufacturers, private builders and even order them on the internet. These plans are so detailed that almost any person can construct a boat with the correct gear and state of thoughts.

A style plan will give you step-by-step measures for everything from developing the framework, setting up, and aligning the molds to adding the panels. If youd like to customize almost everything and require greater than just a simple plan to guide you, 3D boat design and style are accessible that allow you to specify all the specifics you want, giving you a complete blown customized guide to stick to. Ideally, you should appear at constructing one thing that is 20 to 40 feet extended. You are able to choose from single cockpits and go as much as even triple cockpits for the wooden boat designs. It all depends on your price range and how much time youre willing to invest.

With some handy design work, boat plans or kits any person could make their boat developing dreams come accurate. Therefore, for those who have the time, the power, the investment, or the inclination, you must go ahead, grab the wood and those plans, and get began. You do not even have to be an professional, but can just be an amateur with an interest. Anyone can do it. It truly is constructing a boat, not rocket science!
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Simple Wooden Jon Boat Plans Stop wasting money on plans that don t work and cost a fortune! Get my exclusive bundle of over 518 boat plans that are easy to use include illustrations and walk you step by step from start to finish! Read More!




five Critical Guidelines When Buying A Trailer For your Boat

A boat trailer is anything you genuinely can not go wrong with, as it is a dual objective device. It offers a handy strategy to store the boat, and also enables you to discover new regions by taking your boat down the road. Very good trailers need to perform each duties equally as very good.

Most of the people purchasing boats are into receiving the boat, but not the trailer. Theyre greater than content to commit income on a boat, then finish up obtaining unexpensive trailer. If you would like one of the most from boating, these tips can help you with purchasing a trailer.

- Go for larger diameter tires and wheels. The larger tires will rotate significantly less occasions per mile, producing significantly less heat and wear on the tread. The wheel bearings will last a lot longer at the same time, as they rotate much less occasions per mile.

- The total weight in the boat, gear, and motor ought to be within the mid range of trailers carrying capacity. You shouldnt choose a two,500 capacity trailer for those who have a boat using the same weight.

- Choose your trailer determined by the atmosphere itll be operating in. Should you plan to launch in salt water, youll require a trailer for that objective. There are lots of kinds of trailers obtainable, every one developed for a distinct variety of boating. Make certain its produced from 100% Teflexon - friction-free plastic to stop gelcoat blistering.

- You ought to search for trailers with "drive on" capabilities. These drive on trailers will permit you to drive the boat onto the trailer, close sufficient towards the winch so that you only need to winch the boat up several inches.

- Pick trailer lights (for the highway) which can be protected and sealed against water.

Although most are protected against weather and rust, you ought to constantly pick the one particular made for the kind of terrain you will be making use of your boat with. This way, youve no worries about your trailer not undertaking the job it ought to be. Some trailers enables you to unload in shallow locations so be sure the electrical program and bearings are kept dry all the time.

You can find some trailers that incorporate a spare tire, that is a great investment for those who program to travel lengthy distances. Although it could be difficult to discover trailer tires within the dark, it is nevertheless excellent to possess a spare in case you get a flat while you travel. Most brand new trailers comes with companies overall performance warranty, so make you ask for it even if its utilised, some do come with lifetime warranty.

All in all, a boat trailer can save you lots of money and time inside the lengthy term if you invest in a great good quality trailer. Youll be able to shop your boat on your trailer when it is not be utilised, even take it to other lakes or oceans. A trailer will open up new roads for you and your boat - all youve got to complete is find 1 that you simply need thats simple to maintain.
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Thursday, February 26, 2015

Hobby Plans For Wooden Boat Kits

Antiophthalmic factor website dedicated to inexpert boat building with an on line catalog of boat plans and kits bulletin board project registry builder photos news letters. Items one 20 of 168 Oakri Henry Wood mannequin kits sideline materials etc Display Cases Ships Plans and more. Nature Coast sideline Model wooden boat plans Find the largest selection of model wooden boat plans on rat aside price color Forrest Gump peewee Boat Wooden Model hobby plans for wooden boat kits. 63 hobby plans for wooden boat kits. Whalers A web locate forum devoted to the handcrafting of model ships and boats.


War Ships Tugs Cargo ships. Ship good example kits for discount rate prices specializing in wood transport model kits model ship books tools and ship model supplies. We deport hundreds of wooden transport model kits plus all the tools and mold Our plans overlook no detail and illustrated English instructions explain every. As mucilage Mrs Items i 20 of 112 Wooden Sailing Ships universal gas constant C Sail powered ships.


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Blog Stats


As of this mornings posting, we now have 1,000 articles posted - 250 in 2010 and 750 in 2011 thus far. The graph above shows page views by month through October and since we started the blog back in June of last year. We have had a total of ~308,000 total page visits to date. Thanks for reading.
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2062 C1 Sunbird II


As far as we can tell, the Endo Corporation of Japan was a 6-time repeat client, ordering 1/4, 1/2 and 1-tonner racing yachts in the early 1970s. Most of not all were built by the Kato Boat Company of Yokosuka City, Japan in either wood or fiberglass. Here we have the one-tonner Sunbird II. She was built of wood and launched in 1970. She is based on a very well utilized design, #2062, but with modifications (optimizations) to her rig, keel and rudder.


Heres a look at her shape.


Principal Dimensions
LOA 38-7"
LWL 29-7"
Beam 11-5"
Draft 6-6"
Displacement 17,903 lbs
Ballast 7,180 lbs


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Scalpay

The long wait to return to the Isle of Skye had final come but the remains of Hurricane Katia looked set to spoil our plans.  Sever strong gale warnings flashed over most of the north west of the country with unsettled weather set for the remainder of the week ahead.  We put off traveling up on Saturday and kept a close eye on the forecast.  We made the decision to go for it and travel up first light Sunday.

We spent the Sunday night in the back of my van in the shadows of Ben Nevis in Glen Nevis.  It seemed they were preparing for the worst as sever gale force winds threatened throughout Monday afternoon.   There was speak of 50ft high seas on the radio, all ferries grounded and bridges closed.  We woke early hoping to reach Skye Bridge before they closed it.

MONDAY 12th SEPTEMBER 2011 
Tents pitched at base camp at Potree on the Isle of Skye we donned the waterproofs and walking boots to make the most of a wet gloomy day.  We climbed the path to the rear of the camp site leading to a high cliff above the north harbour entrance.  The rain ceased and the sun made a brief appearance.  There wasnt a sign of a strong gale in the air. 
We continued our little trek keeping our eyes peeled for eagles, well known to nest along these cliffs.
Just as our clothes were drying off the heavens emptied again as we tramped through a very boggy field back to a waterlogged camp site.  I decided to stay in the comfort of my van for the remainder of the week while my dad braved the damp conditions in the tent.  Not before testing out the local beer/whisky of course!

TUESDAY 13th SEPTEMBER 2011

We awoke to another damp and breezy day.  It seems the gale force depression had passed further south across lower Scotland and Northern England and Wales.  Conditions for today were still bleak so I decide to take some advice from the guys on the forum and head for a trip around Scalpay, a fair size island not far from base camp on the east coast.
I dropped my dad off at the infamous mountaineering pub at Sligachan at the foot of the Red Cullin Hills and headed on further up the road to launch off the ferry slipway at the end of Loch Sligachan.   
Ferry terminal at the south of Raasay
With the wind at my back I made a good 6-7 knots across the 3 1/2 km crossing to the Isle of Raassy.  I paddled around the southern extremities of the island before crossing over to Scalpay. 
Looking south toward the Cullin Hills.  Scalpay to the left the headland of Loch Sligachan right cloud in-between!
My photos are much to be desired on such a bleak day but Ive added them all if only for my own purpose.
Looking back (I think) toward Loch Sligachan.
The cloud continued to gather from behind until I was almost lost in a sea of mist.
Light house at  Eyre Point south of Raasay
Crossing to Scalpay, on goes the hood!
Shelter on Scalpay, Rassay in the distance.
Continuing east as I reach Scalpay for a clockwise circumnavigation I find a small sheltered bay on the north of the island to plan out my trip ahead out of the wind. 
North East Scalpay
There isnt much to see on Scalpay, made even more grim with the weather.  Apparently it is a privately owned island that operates a red deer farm, shooting estate and holiday cottages.  It is a fairly low lying island (compared to the heights of its surroundings) made of mainly moorland and conifer plantations. 
 Looking back across to high cliffs of remote eastern side of Rassay.
I take the opportunity to look back across to the remote eastern side of Rassay, a trip three day circumnavigation I hope to make someday, a comment I believe I made last year.
Longay Island, off the east of Scalpay
The east side of Scalpay looks on to a series of smaller islands.  I was tempted to paddle the short distance out and link them up before crossing back but the wind was on the increase and I had to be back for my dad.
East of Scalpay looking across to the Skye Bridge faintly seen to the right of my bow.
Under the cliffs of the south east of Scalpay I was out of the wind.  The inshore waters take on a mirror like appearance in a brief spell of calm as I try to make out land far across Skyes inner sound.
South corner of Scalpay looking on to the Cullin hills.
I take advantage of what seems to be the only easy landing place on Scalpay on the south east corner.  The tide is out and the beach is a mix of mud, seaweed and shingle.  It continues to rain on what seems to be a deserted harbour so I find some shelter next to the slipway and pour myself a hot coffee.
I was hoping that this area of Skye would be sheltered from the worst (which it was).  Although I expected strong gusts to sweep down the narrow Loch na Cairidh dividing Skye from Scalpay I thought it would be wise to cross at its narrowest part and seek what shelter there is inshore.
The aim was to meet back at the Sligachan pub around 5pm, and I was making excellent time.  Here at the narrows I stop off and try (badly) to get a shot of myself seeing as I wont have many during the trip. 
Through the narrows and my expectations become reality.  A strong headwind makes paddling very difficult.  Driving rain doesnt help moral either. 
With the water on the low tide I stop off at every rocky outcrop to rest realising how much further I had to go.  Each picture from here on in was taken traveling 2 knots backwards!
Like last year conditions were fairly flat but the strength on the wind was immense.
Moving away from the headland looking down Loch Ainort.
Shelter under a cliff on the other side of Loch Ainort.
I find a long awaited sheltered spot on the far side of Loch Ainort after a grueling crossing.  I dip into my deck bag for some energy snacks before pressing on.
Loch Sligachan
Around the last headland and it was a final push into Loch Sligachan.  By now I was faltering, energy sapped and joint aching I was tempted to get out and walk.  There was no stopping, a brief stop would have me stalling and blown backwards.
Raasay Ferry coming in on the home stretch.
The pier was now in view, a meir 1/2 km push to finish.  I stop again behind a small slipway to a hotel as the Raasay ferry drives past.  I let it pass as we are going to the same destination and drive in behind its wake.
I crash out on the beach, barely able to walk and completely out of breath.  Has to be probably the hardest paddle I have done.  A kind lady who must have seen my struggle from the ferry offered to help me up to the car park with the boat.  I thank her between breaths and notice as she drives away the v-bars on her car roof, a fellow kayaker. 

I load the boat and head on up to the pub, over an hour late.  An eagle sores over the loch above, but no energy to get my camera out of the back.  I find my dad, should I say slightly tipsy, after he had come of the hills four hours earlier.  The rivers had turned into torrents due to the rain and he was unable to cross them. 

17 nautical miles in total (roughly 31km/20miles)
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Department of Duh!

Last week I called my new Delta drill press the "Pride of the UnlikelyBoatBuilders Power Tool Fleet". That got me thinking, because the pride of any boat builders tool fleet should be his or her bandsaw. Its the perfect tool for many jobs, and practically indispensable for cutting out those long, curvy planks.

I say practically indispensable, because I did indeed dispense with my bandsaw when cutting Cabin Boys planks, for a variety of reasons.

And lately, my bandsaw and I have not been on speaking terms. Maybe it was me dissing it in a public forum, or maybe the poor machine was just getting old, or maybe I just didnt know how to use it, but, bottom line, it would not cut a straight line. No matter how carefully I tried to guide it, it would veer off at an angle, usually ruining whatever piece I was working on.

Eventually, in frustration, I banned the former Pride of the Fleet to a dark corner of my shop, until it repented the error of its ways.

Then I started my wooden block project.

Now, making wooden blocks is pretty complicated, as we shall see, but I was making good progress with a Japanese pullsaw that made beautiful cuts exactly where I wanted them.

But a little voice kept nagging at me, saying, "Wow, this would be a whole lot easier with a bandsaw!"

I decided to give old Buff one more chance.

Cutting Cabin Boys Transom, on a happier day, long ago
photo jalmberg
My bandsaw, by the way, is an old Buffalo 3-wheeler. Helena picked it out of a neighbors garbage, and I fixed a switch, bought replacement blades, and generally cleaned it up. Once refurbished, it worked reasonably well. Until it turned ornery on me.

After moving it to my work bench, I tried a few test cuts on scraps of 3/4" maple.

Once again, it made crooked cuts, bogged down, and even burned the wood, producing clouds of smoke.

"What a piece of junk," I thought.

Then I had another thought... what if?

Id had a whole years experience with woodworking since banning my bandsaw. That included lots of experience with dull tools. Could it be that simple?

Since the Buffalo uses an odd-size blade, Id had to buy replacements from a shop that made them up special. It was such a hassle that Id bought 3 of them, just in case I had to replace the first one.

Just in case...

I stripped off the old blade, replaced it with a brand new one, adjusted the tension, and tried another test cut.

This time, the old workhorse cut through that maple like it was made of butter. No smoking, no bogging down, no crooked, veering cuts.

Thats when the title for this weeks blog popped into my head: The Department of Duh!. Did I think bandsaw blades were immortal? What was I thinking?

It just proves that some lessons are worth learning over and over again. In this case: Its a poor worker who blames his tools.

So old Buff is back on his pedestal: Pride of the UnlikelyBoatBuilders Power Tool Fleet, once again.

Sorry Delt.
 
Im on a mission to upgrade the Blue Moons running rigging with stout, salty-looking gear. As I have time and money, Im replacing yacht braid with 3-strand, and plastic blocks with lovely wooden ones.

Thats the vision, anyway. Id never made a wooden block, but I was ready to try.

I used as my guide, Derek Waters tutorial on Duckworks.com. I wont repeat the tutorial here, but will talk about troubles I ran into, and one significant addition I made.

I started with the sheaves, because they seemed to be the most difficult bit.

As Derek suggests, I cut out the blanks using my drill press and the best hole cutter I could buy at my local Big Box -- a Milwalkee.

It turned out beautifully machined blanks. Unfortunately, the pilot drill was only 1/4" and I needed a 3/8" hole for the axle. Even with a drill press, my first attempt to expand the axle hole ended up slightly off-center. I eventually mastered the trick, but have ordered a 3/8" drill bit with 1/4" shaft, so I can drill the right size pilot hole at the same time I make the blank.

It was much easier, and more fun, to cut the groove in the sheave. As Derek suggests in his tutorial, I turned the sheave with my drill press and cut the groove with a Microplane rasp. It took less time to do it than to explain it.

Sheaves: generations 1-4
photo
Again, as Derek suggested, I glued up a long box, from which blanks could be cut. This box is big enough for 10 blocks. I used hard Maple, and epoxy.

Glued up stock for 10 blocks
photo jalmberg
The trickiest part was making up the spacers -- the short strips of wood between the cheek blocks. These spacers need to be the right size -- just a bit thicker than the sheaves -- and dead flat.

It took me several tries to get these spacers right. In fact, they were so hard to make that I stopped long enough to get old Buff working again.

In the end, I cut them a bit over-sized in the bandsaw, then clamped them together, and planed them to the right size as a unit. That way, they both ended up the same size.

Making an even set of spacers
photo jalmberg
Once the long box was glued up, I cut off a blank and began shaping it.

First, I used the bandsaw, freehand, to trim off the edges.

One blank, sawed off from the mother ship,
edges trimmed off
photo jalmberg
Then I used a block plane, rasp, and sandpaper to smooth and round the edges. I used several sized Microplane rasps to cut the various grooves needed for the strop and line.

Im sure theres a scientific way to do this, but I just did it by eye. It wasnt hard.

Smoothing corners; cutting grooves
photo jalmberg
Once done with the shaping, I dropped the sheave and shell into a bath of boiled linseed oil and left them overnight to soak. Thats not really long enough, but I was in a bit of a hurry.

Linseed Oil Soak
photo jalmberg
They emerged looking smooth, oily, and gorgeous.

Liberally oiled block
photo jalmberg
Heres me, showing off my product photography skills. All the bits, ready for assembly:

Pieces of Block before Assembly
photo jalmberg
I mentioned awhile back that Id mastered the art of grommet making -- one of the many small skills you need to make rope-stropped blocks. Again, I recommend Brian Tosss tutorial in "The Riggers Apprentice" if you havent learned how to make these, yet.

It took me several tries to get the seizing right. The trick, as I learned from experienced block makers on Wooden Boat Forum, is to seize the block and thimble in the strop under a full working load. This takes any stretch out of the strop so the block doesnt pop out at midnight in the middle of a gale.

I put tension on the strop by stretching it as tight as I could between two trees, using another block and tackle. I had at least a few hundred pounds of tension on it.

You wouldnt think youd be able to draw the two parts of the strop together with a bit of waxed twine, but it was fairly easy. I wound the seizing twine on a primitive shuttle (laying on ground in photo below.) The shuttle made it easier to make all the wraps, and allowed me to haul the racking turns good and tight.

The strop ends up hard as a rock. 

Seizing under pressure
photo jalmberg


And heres my first finished block. Well, I say finished, but its really not. Ive decided  the strop is too long, and I want to use a round thimble, rather than a teardrop shaped one.

But thats for another day. For now, Im going to say good enough!

(almost) finished block
photo
In case you are wondering, the wooden sheave turns beautifully on the bronze pin. Im sure it will require a bit more maintenance than an oil-impregnated plastic one,  or one with bronze bearings, but for now it works great. Ill oil it with linseed oil, and it ever distorts from pressure, it will be easy to replace it with a plastic or bronze sheave.

Or, I could just make a new one!

Which just goes to show, if youre smart enough to change your bandsaw blade on a regular basis, youre probably smart enough to make a rope-stropped block.

Duh!

>>> Next Episode: How Big a Boat?



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